The surfboard is both a piece of sports equipment and a work of art. It is a marvel of engineering and for some, a path to fame and celebrity. It exudes both power and grace; it allows its rider to soar through the air or penetrate the watery depths. Centuries ago, early Polynesians considered the surfboard a religious icon, a means of worshipping the ocean. Today it is a cultural icon, a means of worshipping not simply the ocean but also those who seek to master its powerful and unpredictable forces. In 365 Surfboards, surfing expert and writer Ben Marcus brings together the most important, most interesting, and most innovative surfboards the world has ever known. From 12-foot-long koa boards of ancient Hawai'i to state-of-the-art modern boards utilizing streamlined design for maximum speed and maneuverability, the surfboard has undergone numerous revolutions and advancements through the years. Pioneering riders and shapers-from Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Blake, to Greg Noll and Hobie Alter, to Kelly Slater and Al Merrick-have brought their own personal touches and insights to continually refine and redefine the ultimate tool for riding the waves.
Each of the 365 boards featured here are presented through color images and in-depth descriptions to offer a compelling and comprehensive history of the surfboard and the people, moments, and innovations that have revolutionized the sport.
Author Biography
Ben Marcus is a surfer and skateboarder for life. He was Surfer magazine associate editor and still writes for Surfer, The Surfer's Journal, and others. He's the author of our The Surfboard, Surfing USA!, Surfing & the Meaning of Life, and The Surfer's Handbook. He lives in Malibu, of course. www.benmarcusrules.com Ben Marcus is a stoked gremmie who grew up surfing Santa Cruz and Malibu. After high school, he traveled the world in search of the perfect wave. He served 10 years as associate editor at The Surfer magazine. He now writes for The Surfer's Journal and other surf publications. Ben is the author of Voyageur's Surfing USA! and a forthcoming surf guidebook series for Chronicle. He lives in Malibu. www.benmarcusrules.comJeff Divine is one of the world's most famed surfing photographers, bar none. He is the photo editor at The Surfer's Journal.Dividing her time between her native Brazil and the United States, Juliana Morais is a photographer, filmmaker, and writer who contributes to ESPN Brazil and several surf and sports magazines worldwide. She is also a surfer. Lucia Griggi photographed skateboarders from Tony Hawk to Stacey Peralta and more for this book. She works between Los Angeles and London.
