Top off that costume with the perfect accoutrement with this first real guide to creating and styling costume wigs. No longer will you need to comb through old references on hairstyles of different time periods, Wig Making and Styling contains everything you need to be a cut above, offering snippets on styling tools, hair types, wig making and measuring, coloring, cutting, and even creating beards and toupees. Other great features include: -Versatile techniques to create all different historical hairstyles -Tips on altering existing wigs and creating wigs from scratch -Multiple approaches and solutions to solving wig-making problems and needs -Information about the industry, including history and best practices Full of inspirational and directive photographs, this book will groom anyone from novice to professional stylist into a skilled wig designer.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents CHAPTER 1-WIG MAKING TERMS, TOOLS, AND TECHNIQUES Extensive glossary of terms used in wig making and styling Essential tools for a wig making kit and a wig styling kit Different types of hairpins and their uses Different types of brushes and their uses Things needed for a good work space Blocking a wig, handling a wig, basic sewing stitches CHAPTER 2-WIG MAKING BASICS: LEARNING TO VENTILATE Different types of needles and holders; loading the needle into the holder Different types of wig making laces, nets, ribbon, stays, and their uses Different types of hair and their uses Basic knotting techniques -Single knotting -Double knotting Body positions to ventilate in Different patterns, densities and ventilating directions Untying knots Blending hair colors Sewing with invisible thread CHAPTER 3-TAKING ACCURATE MEASUREMENTS What measurements need to be taken and why How to take proper head measurements using a tape measure How to transfer head measurements to a block How to take a plastic tracing of a performer's head using plastic wrap and clear tape How to pad out a block to exactly fit these plastic tracings CHAPTER 4-FACIAL HAIR How to take a facial hair tracing Growth direction of different areas of facial hair How to lay out the lace for different types of facial hair Crepeing hair to add texture Cutting and styling the finished piece of facial hair Application and removal, of facial hair CHAPTER 5-FRONTING AND OTHER ADAPTATIONS OF COMMERCIAL WIGS Types of wig fronts Human hairlines How to do a quick front How to do a regular/standard wig front How to do a deep front Lace and hair growth direction Silk blenders Nape laces Piecing together wigs CHAPTER 6-BUILDING A FULL WIG FROM SCRATCH Types of full wig foundations How to make circumference band foundation How to make a nape piece foundation How to make a one piece back foundation Seams and edges Adding the hair Parts, crown swirls, and cowlicks Balding wigs CHAPTER 7-TOUPEES, PARTIAL WIGS, AND OTHER HAIRPIECES Discuss the different types of hairpieces and toupees Discuss issues in matching hair color to hair pieces Demonstrate how to make weft Discuss different types of falls and how to use each Custom falls Demonstrate making a switch CHAPTER 8-WIG APPLICATION AND REMOVAL Discuss different ways of preparing the performer's hair to go under the wig Demonstrate a pin curl prep Demonstrate a wrapped prep Demonstrate a braided prep Demonstrate a prep for a person with short, little, or no hair Demonstrate how to put on a lace front wig Demonstrate how to take off a lace fronted wig or facial hair piece CHAPTER 9-WIG STYLING TECHNIQUES Different elements of a hairstyle-straight hair, wavy hair, curly hair, braided/coiled/dreadlocked hair Dealing with different hair types (human hair vs. synthetic hair Methods of making hair straight Methods of making hair wavy Methods of making hair curly Different types of braids How to create dreadlocks on a wig CHAPTER 10--CREATING A HAIRSTYLE How to take the techniques from chapter 10 and put them together to create a hairstyle How to break the hairstyle down into sections Discuss how to read research pictures to create a hairstyle How to plan out a set before beginning the wig styling Basic setting rules and basic wig styling rules Teasing a wig vs. stuffing a wig to create volume in a hairstyle Using a wire frame to create shape in a hairstyle Men's hairstyling Sample hairstyles CHAPTER 11--CUTTING, PERMING, AND COLORING A FINISHED WIG Different coloring methods -hair color basics -universal hair color systems -temporary hair color products -fabric dyes -safety precautions -dyeing human hair -dyeing synthetic hair Before you perm wigs Cutting wigs vs. cutting hair on a live human being CHAPTER 12-HAIR THAT ISN'T HAIR: WIGS MADE FROM OTHER MATERIALS Reasons why a person would want to create wig using a material other than hair Different types of bases/foundations that can be used for non-hair wigs Demonstrate how to steam and stretch a felt hood into a cap Demonstrate how to make a buckram cap Tips and techniques for non-hair wigs Gallery of non-hair wigs CHAPTER 13-HOW TO GET A SHOW INTO PRODUCTION How to analyze a script How to organize a show notebook How to design a specific character How to design an overall look for a show How to budget for a show Different jobs in the wig field and how to get them How to charge appropriately for your work CHAPTER 14-CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF WIGS Methods of touching up a wig during a run How to clean lace wigs and facial hairpieces The proper way to wash a wig and how often it needs to be done Proper storage and inventory of wigs
Martha Ruskai has 30 years of wig making and design experience running the gamut from The Santa Fe Opera & Off Broadway to Miller Light Beer TV commercials & properties wigs for Sleeping With the Enemy. 25 years of teaching at major theatrical institutions including creating the Wig and Makeup Training Program at the University of North Carolina School of the Arts. Allison Lowery is the Wig and Makeup Specialist for Texas Performing Arts at the University of Texas at Austin. She was also the Wig Master for the Alabama Shakespeare Festival, and has created wigs and makeup for Zilker Musical Theatre, the Lyric Opera of Chicago, the Utah Shakespeare Festival, and many others. She has also been a recipient of the B. Iden Payne Award for Outstanding Costume Design.