"So, in short, Mr Ayris, you need to take it easy for a while," the doctor said to me. "Pneumonia is a very serious illness. For somebody of your age to have required almost three weeks in hospital, well, that is not something to be taken lightly..." Just about exactly a year later - the spring of 2017 to be precise - in forty-degree heat and one hundred percent humidity, I was walking an eleven-year-old jaguar through the Bolivian jungle, exhilarated, exonerated, exhausted and wowed up to the toppermost of the poppermost. This is the tale of how all that came to pass. It is a rhapsody. A Bolivian rhapsody. Whatever the hell that is...